A large part of the months spent planning this voyage involved researching and getting to know each planned and even unplanned port visit. We considered everything: local features, harbor approaches, local weather phenomena, how ice influences the harbor, the protection and bottom holding of each anchorage, available berthing, fuel services, grocery stores, port authorities, and, of course, where to find the local cuisine. Yet, despite all the preparation, each place felt both familiar and delightfully new upon arrival.

Sisimiut was our last port stop in Greenland, and I am grateful we didn’t miss it. The town starts at the harbor’s edge and gradually slopes upward into the heart of town, all perched at the base of enormous ice-capped mountains backed by Greenland’s icecap. Small, cottage-like homes sit on rocky peaks and outcroppings, appearing as if built for birds. The historic waterfront resembles a boat graveyard with relics and curiosities from the past, yet it still functions, preparing the local fishing fleet for year-round fishing. Old wooden Dutch-built pleasure craft are scattered along grassy parts of the hills below houses. Everything seems to tell a story of a past world, full of intrigue and mystery, one rarely visited by outsiders. Greenland sled dogs bask in the sun, patiently waiting for winter when they will once again pull sleds. It is the most scenic and charming of towns, with a mixed population of Dutch students and Greenlandic locals who enjoy the summer boating activities.

It was a pleasant end to our time in Greenland and a good break for the crew. Then came departure day. After waiting out another low-pressure system, we cast off for Labrador. As weather changes, so does the voyage plan. We combined sailing and motoring down the Davis Strait and into the North and South Labrador Seas. We enjoyed 12 hours with a beautiful breeze off the starboard quarter, with Bowdoin making speeds up to 9 knots. We now experience a few hours of darkness at night, which feels strange but welcome.

We made a brief stop in Battle Harbor, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Many employees are locals who grew up here or visited during the summers to fish and find quiet sanctuary. The crew received a tour from one of these locals, and we even visited the loft where, in 1909, Admiral Peary broadcast news of his party reaching the North Pole. Next to him sat Donald B. Macmillan, many years before his schooner Bowdoin was built. The ferry shuttles new visitors out twice a day, and a flotilla of Labrador locals joined us for dinner and an evening of live music by our talented engineer, Tom Klodenski.

We then set out for Mary’s Harbor, 8 nautical miles west of Battle. Here, we took on fuel and saw friends from last year. The sentiment we received was that Bowdoin is always welcome, and we hope to see you next year.

Now, in the Strait of Belle Isle, we put the last bit of ice behind us and watched sea and air temperatures rise. We stowed away warmer outer layers and were reminded of the summer season. We look forward to our return and seeing many of you at the waterfront in Castine on July 26.

Sincerely,

Captain Peacock

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